Exfoliation of the Skin

This is the phase within the other phases of our BSC Skin Care & Renewal System.

Skin – the more your wear it down the more it grows - or so the theory goes.

Skin Exfoliation is necessary by our late twenties / early thirties. When we are younger, normal functioning skin sheds itself regularly to stay fresh and youthful. As we age, our natural exfoliation process slows and our skin looks dull and rough. Thank goodness there are lots of easy ways to shed those dead skin cells and get back that glow.

What does exfoliation do for your skin?

• help reduce the look of fine lines
• smooth your skin's surface
• make your skin look fresh
• some research shows exfoliation promotes collagen building
• clean clogged pores
• improve skin's thickness - which is good.
• help get rid of brown spots
• improve skin cell renewal
• clear off the dead skin layer and allow the active ingredients in skin care products reach the inner layers of your skin to do more good

Wow, exfoliation does a lot for your skin!

So what exfoliation method is right for you?

There are 2 ways to exfoliate your skin using either -
chemical methods or mechanical methods.

Chemical Exfoliation methods for the face include:

• Skin Care Products containing Alpha or Beta Hydroxy Acids
• Skin Care Products containing an enzyme known as Proteolytic Plant Enzymes (for sensitive skin)
• A stronger chemical peel by a professional

Mechanical Exfoliation methods for the face include:

• Home Microdermabrasion systems (scrubs)
• Microdermabrasion by a professional
• Laser Peels by a physician

Mechanical Exfoliation Methods for the rest of your body:

• Simple loofa or scrubbing pads
• Dry brush exfoliation
• Sugar body scrubs

Now let’s examine each method individually to help you make your choice.

Chemical Methods of Skin Exfoliation: Applying lotions containing acids or enzymes to the skin to loosen dead skin cells.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids

AHA's exfoliate by dissolving the “glue” (keratin) that holds your dead skin cells together. this allows the dead cells to shed more easily. AHAs are the most commonly used type of chemical exfoliation. They are water soluble and will only exfoliate the dead skin and not the healthy skin cells. AHAs are best for normal to dry skin types and sun damaged skin. One other special quality of an AHA is that is helps your skin retain moisture.

On an ingredient list, alpha hydroxy acids are known as:

• Glycolic acid   (sugar)
• Lactic acid       (milk)
• Malic acid       (apple)
• Citric acid       (citrus fruit)
• Tartaric acid   (grapes)

with glycolic and lactic acid being the most frequently used.

AHA’s work best at concentrations of 5% to 20% with a pH value of 3 to 4.5. The effectiveness of AHA’s with a pH over 4.5 declines. When choosing an AHA product, look for the acid (glycolic, lactic etc.) to be listed 2^nd or 3rd on the ingredient list. This should put the concentration percentage in the effective range.

Skin Care Product Directory

Beta Hydroxy Acid

BHA only comes in one type – salicylic acid. BHA works by dissolving the “glue” (keratin) holding dead skin cells together. The big difference between an alpha and a beta hydroxy acid is that the BHA is oil soluble. Being oil soluble makes BHA better for normal/oily to oily skin, skin with blackheads and blemishes and sun damaged skin that is oily. BHA can penetrate through your excess oil into the pores to better clean them therefore reducing breakouts. BHA is generally less irritating than AHA’s.

Beta Hydroxy Acid works best with concentrations of 1% to 2% with a pH value of 3 to 4. A pH value over 4 lessens its’ effectiveness. Because of its lower required concentration, look for salicylic acid to be listed somewhere in the middle of an ingredient list.

Tips for AHA’s and BHA:

Some tingling with use should be expected with alpha and beta hydroxy acids. If you experience redness and severe stinging, then you need to try another product. It may be the concentration of acids or it could be another ingredient in the product.

If this is your first exfoliation or you have not done it is a while, then you should experience skin flaking. If this is inconveinent for you, try a clay mask to speed up the skin removal process.

• Do not use a scrub on top of the acids., as it will be to irritating.
• After 6 to 8 weeks, your amount of exfoliation will level off. You will not see as much dead skin because you do not have as much dead skin now. That is good. But don’t quit your routine. Use your AHA / BHA 2 to 3 times a week to keep up that glow.
• There are many moisturizing products that include acids for daily exfoliation. In this case, choosing one that is not to strong, so you can use it in your system can have a big advantage. Saves time and money.

Be sure to use sunscreen.

You skin will be more vulnerable to the sun while using these acids.

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Proteolytic Plant Enzymes

Plant enzymes are different from AHAs or BHAs because they work by dissolving the top layer of dead skin cells. The main plant enzymes used in skin exfoliation are from the Papaya (papain enzyme), Pineapple (Bromelain enzyme) and Pumpkin.

 

Enzymes exfoliators can be used as an alternative to acid exfoliators and work well for sensitive skin that cannot tolerate acid.

Enzyme exfoliators also should be used by persons of darker skin tones. Men and women with a lot of skin pigmentation can damage their skin with the harsher hydroxy acids or mechanical exfoliation.

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If you choose any of the above methods, please follow the usage instructions on the product. And no matter what product you choose, test a small area of skin first for sensitivity.

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Chemical acid peels

Chemical peels are another option for quicker and maybe a little better results than home use hydroxy acids. A chemical peel is just a very strong concentration of glycolic or lactic acid applied to the skin.

Peels can be done by a physician or aesthetician when the acid concentration is 30% or less. Peels with acid concentrations over 50% MUST be done by a physician. Peels can be deep, medium, or superficial.

Please make sure you use a qualified person for this treatment.

Peels done at these high concentrations can have some risks with most people experiencing:

• severe redness
• irritation
• skin flaking
• dryness

These side effects usually lasts around a week.

The doctor or aesthetician will give you products to help the skin healing process.

It may also take a few peels to achieve the desired results. This is something you would need to discuss with your physician or aesthetician. However, a beautiful, new skin will be revealed.

Click here to continure - Learn about Mechanical Exfoliation

or go to

How to incorporate exfoliation into your skin care system

if you are going to use a chemical method.

 

 

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