Skin Care Terminology

Being familiar with the technical terms used in skin care will help you choose better products. Of course you don’t need to memorize anything, just bookmark this page to refer back to when needed.

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A

Abrade-To use friction to rub away top layers of skin and dead skin cells.

 

Abrasives – Exfoliating scrubs that use granular particles to abrade the skin.

 

Abrasive Granular Particles – particles used in scrubs to exfoliate dead skin cells. Include – silicon beads, finely ground nut husks and corn meal, oatmeal, aluminum oxide, crystal quarts, baking soda and salt.

 

Absorbent – capable of soaking up moisture or oil.

 

Acne - An inflammatory disease of the sebaceous glands and hair follicles. It is apparent by the eruption of pimples or pustules, especially on the face.

 

Active Ingredient – The ingredient agent mainly responsible for the proposed benefit of the product.

 

Additives - A substance added in small amounts to a product to improve, strengthen, or otherwise modify it.

 

Adjusters – Ingredients used to adjust a products attributes. Examples: adjust pH balance, thicken a product, or thin a product.

 

Aesthetician – A license person skilled in giving facials, manicures, pedicures, and other beauty treatments.

 

Agent – An ingredient that is expected to give a specific effect.

 

Age Spots – Flat, pigmented brown spots mostly found on skin that has been exposed to sun rays repeatedly. Technically known as “lentigines” and commonly as liver spots.

 

Alcohol-Free – a product that does not contain ethanol that can dry out skin.

 

Alkaline – Any substance with a pH between 7 – 14.

 

Allergy Tested – A product that has had a controlled study on human subjects where they have been exposed to large amounts of potential allergens.

 

Allergen – any substance that can produce an allergic response.

 

Amino Acid – Any of a large number of compounds found in cells that include carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, and nitrogen, and link together to form proteins. In skin care products, amino acids are used as pre-cursors, up-regulators, water binding agents and antioxidants.

 

Antibacterial – an ingredient that fights infection and germs. (bactericides)

 

Anti-inflammatory – any ingredient that reduces redness, swelling or blistering.

 

Antimicrobial– an ingredient that reduces or completely stops microbial growth.

 

Antioxidant – can be used as preservatives or to neutralize free radicals that occur naturally in the skin and body. Topically applied antioxidants help fight skin aging. Examples are vitamin E, vitamin A, Vitamin C, vitamin D, CoQ10 and alpha lipoic acid.

 

Anti-Phlogistic – an anti-inflammatory that lessens redness.

 

Antiseptic – Prevents the growth of bacteria.

 

Astringent – chemical substance that is used to tighten or shrink the skin for a short time.

 

B

 

Balm - assorted aromatic resinous substances used for healing and calming skin.

 

Barrier Function – stands for the role that skin plays in guarding the body from infection and reducing water loss.

 

Base – In cosmetics and skin care, a base can either be a foundation make-up or the group of ingredients which supply the basis for a product.

 

Binder – an agent that holds other product ingredients together and may increase consistency.

 

Bleaching – denotes either the lightening of skin or teeth.

 

Botanical – an ingredient derived from plants.

 

Brightness – with regards to skin, brightness refers to luminous skin from patches of discoloration.

 

Broad spectrum – a sunscreen product that protects from both UVA and UVB sun rays.

 

Buffer – to lessen the effect of an ingredient.

 

C

 

Cell membrane – the permeable outer wall of a cell.

 

Cell proliferation – an increase in cell growth and division.

 

Cell renewal – the process of replacing dead skin cells with new skin cells.

 

Cellular durability – the capacity of cells to support and protect the skin and its defenses.

 

Cellular oxidation – contributes to skin aging because it produces free radicals.

 

Cellular repair – the cell’s ability to use proteins, lipids and carbohydrates for repair.

 

Cellulite - Another name for fat that is hard to get rid of by dieting and that often has a dimpled appearance. There is no physiological distinction between cellulite and ordinary fat.

 

Chelate – the process of stopping metals in water from uniting with other elements.

 

Clay – very fine ground earth that can include minerals. Used in skin care products to remove impurities, exfoliate and conditioning.

 

Clinically proven – the use of clinical studies to prove and validate claims about a product.

 

Collagen – a fibrous protein found in skin, bone, cartilage teeth. It makes skin resistant to stretching and maintains the skins integrity. Collagen is damaged by sunlight, pollution and aging.

 

Comedone - an accumulation of hardened sebum clogging a pore. It is commonly called a blackhead or whitehead.

 

Compound - composed of two or more parts, elements, or ingredients. Ex. Soap  

 

Corneocytes – dead skin cells found in the stratum corneum.

 

Corynebacterium – is a bacterial organism connected with acne in the sebaceous follicles.

 

Cyst - An atypical membranous sac comprising of a gaseous, liquid, or semisolid substance.

 

D

 

Degradation – when something breaks down. In skin, this refers to the failure of cell membranes, collagen and elastin.

 

Dermal crease – a line or wrinkle on the face caused by repeated muscle movement. Found typically between the eyes, on the forehead and around the mouth.

 

Dermatitis - inflammation of the skin including redness, itchiness and blisters. Can be cause by an internal allergen or from by an external irritant.

 

Disencrustation – the breaking down of excess keratinization with the use of a chemical.

 

Discoloration – uneven skin tone consisting of age spots, blotches and freckles.

 

E

 

Eczema - A noncontiguous inflammation of the skin, distinguished by redness, itching, and the eruption of lesions that may release serous matter and become encrusted and scaly.

 

Efficacious – in skin care, refers to products that produce the desired benefits.

 

Elasticity – The skin’s ability to spring back into shape. Declines with age and sun exposure.

 

Elastin - A protein similar to collagen found in the dermis that allows skin to return to its original form. It is the principal structural component of elastic fibers.

 

Elastinase – an enzyme that breaks down elastin in the skin.

 

Emollient – ingredients that make products slippery. In skin care products, emollients smooth and soften the skin and provide a protective seal.

 

Emulsifier – an ingredient used to bind oil to water. Then the skin care product is both water and oil based.

 

Environmental stress – on the skin, this is the disturbance of the skin’s natural balance by pollutants, UV rays and harsh weather.

 

Enzymes - A protein molecule that acts as catalysts to help other organic molecules enter into chemical reactions with one another but the enzyme is unaffected by these reactions. In skin care products, can be used for exfoliation

.

Essence – a concentrated extract added for aroma or a certain benefit.

 

Extract – a concentrate taken from plant parts through chemical or physical means. Used in skin care for aroma and healing.

 

F

 

Fatty acid - any of a class of aliphatic acids (palmitic, stearic, or oleic acid) consisting of a long hydrocarbon chain ending in a carboxyl group that bonds to glycerol to form a fat. Required for healthy cell membranes and for the moisture barrier in the skin.

 

Follicle - a small body cavity, sac, or gland.

 

Fibroblast - a cell in the dermis that is a factor in the formation of connective tissue fibers (collagen and elastin).

 

Free radicals - Oxygen molecules with additional electrons produced by the oxidative process within the body. They are thought to be responsible for tissue injury and disease. Free radicals occur in the body from normal body functions and from pollutants and sun exposure.

 

H

 

Herbal – an ingredient derived from herbs or herb parts. Often used for healing and scent.

 

Humectants – ingredients used in cosmeceuticals to draw in and retain moisture into the skin.

 

Hydration – essential in skin care, hydration is the process of absorbing water into the skin.

 

Hyper pigmentation – dark spots caused by an increase in melanin in the skin. Usually happens from over sun exposure, hormones, stress or trauma.

 

Hyperactive skin – a skin that is overly active characterized by irritation, inflammation, dilated capillaries, pustules and increased circulation.

 

Hypoactive skin – the skin is sluggish characterized by poor color, lack of oxygen and dullness.

 

I

 

IPL – intense pulse light. Used to remove hair and repair sun damaged skin.

 

Irritant – an ingredient that produces an adverse response from your skin. Such as swelling and redness.

 

K

 

Keloids - A red, raised formation of scar tissue produced by excessive tissue repair in response to skin damage or surgical incision.

 

Keratin - Any of a group of durable, fibrous proteins that are the chief structural component of hair, nails, horns, feathers, and hooves.

 

Keratinocyte – a type of skin cell in the epidermis. Forms in the lower basal cell layer then works its way through the upper layers changing form and function until it reaches the stratum corneum and dies.

 

Keratinized – a condition characterized by flaking skin and surface resistance.

 

L

 

Lecithin - Any of a group of phospholipids found in egg yolks and the membrane of plant and animal cells It is used as an emulsifier in a large variety of commercial products, including foods, cosmetics, paints, and plastics. Also called phosphatidylcholine.

 

Lipid - Any of a group of organic compounds, including fats, oils, waxes, sterols, and triglycerides. Lipids are insoluble in water but soluble in alcohol and ether They are oily to the touch. Together with carbohydrates and proteins, lipids are the chief structural components of living cells.

 

Luminous – in skin care, luminous refers to a radiant, fresh complexion.

 

M

 

Mechanical aging – results from the regular movement of muscles of the face including smiling, frowning, squinting and so on.

 

Melanin – skin pigment produced in the basal layer of the epidermis by melanocytes cells. This cell that give skin, hair and eyes their color.

 

Melanocytes – skin cells in the basal cell layer of the epidermis that make melanin. Affected by sun exposure.

 

Melasma - A patchy or generalized dark pigmentation of the skin mostly seen on woman. Can be exacerbated by hormones and sun rays.

 

Micro-crystals – Extremely small crystals like aluminum oxide used in microdermabrasion.

 

Milia - A small, white or yellowish cyst like mass just below the surface of the skin. It is produced by retention of the secretion of a sebaceous gland. Also called whitehead.

 

Moisturization – is helping the skins barrier function by providing moisture.

 

MSH – Melanocyte Stimulating Hormone – a hormone made by the pituitary gland. MSH is produced when the body is exposed to sunlight giving your skin a tan.

 

O

 

Oil Gland – the gland within skin that produces sebum. Sebum helps keep the skin soft and supple.

 

Organic – anything that is a carbon based plant or animal. In food and skin care, organic means grown without chemical pesticides or fertilizers.

 

P

 

Papule - A small, solid, usually inflammatory rise in the skin that does not contain pus.

 

pH scale – The scale use to measure the alkalinity or acidity of a solution. On a scale of 0 to 14, 7 are neutral with 0 thru 7 being acidic and 7 thru 14 being alkaline. The pH of healthy skin is somewhat acidic at 5.5 to 6.5 on the scale.

 

pH balanced – having the most favorable pH level.

 

Phytochemical – a chemical found in plant sources.

 

Plasticity – the characteristic of being pliable and elastic.

 

Polyphenols –Shown to be very potent antioxidants. Polyphenols are found in grape seed extract and grape skin, olive oil, green tea, dark chocolates, wine and many more foods

.

Polysaccharide – are complex carbohydrates that contain simple sugar molecules. Ex. starch or cellulose the aloe plant has polysaccharides hence the healing ability the plant is known for. In skin care, polysaccharides moisturize and condition skin.

 

Pore – A pore is a tiny opening into a sebaceous gland that secretes oil to lubricate and protect the surface of the skin.

 

Preservative - a chemical substance used to preserve foods or skin care products from decomposition or fermentation.

 

Proliferation – the encouraging of new skin cell growth.

 

Proprietary Ingredient – an ingredient that is owned by a single company. The owner company is the only one who can use the ingredient in products.

 

Protease – A proteolytic enzyme that breaks proteins and amino acids by hydrolyzing the peptide bond. Used to soften and exfoliate skin surface.

 

Purge – to flush skin of impurities.

 

Pustule – the later stage of a papule.

 

R

 

Resilience – the skins capacity to heal itself in relation to wear, aging and stressors.

 

Retexturization – the process of exfoliating dry, rough skin to reveal a fresh, smoother skin surface.

 

Rosacea – is an inflammatory disorder of the skin. Its’ cause is unknown and there is no real cure, but medical care is available to help with the symptoms which include:

• Redness on the cheeks, nose, chin or forehead.
• Small visible blood vessels on the face.
• Bumps or pimples on the face.
• Watery or irritated eyes.

Rubefactant – an ingredient added to stimulate circulation in the skin. Usually produces redness.

 

S

 

Seborrheic Dermatitis - is a common, inflammatory skin condition that causes flaky, white to yellowish scales to form on oily areas such as the scalp. It can happen with or without reddened skin. Typically it forms where the skin is oily or greasy. In infants is called cradle cap.

 

Sebum – composed mostly of fat, keratin and cells, sebum is the oily wax produced by the sebaceous glands.

 

Sealant – an ingredient that can bind moisture to the skin and help prevent moisture loss.

 

Skin lighteners – products marketed to reduce to eliminate brown spots and irregular skin pigmentation.

 

Sloughing – to exfoliate or shed dead skin cells.

 

Soap-free – used to identify cleansers that are not made using fat and alkalis. They have a close pH value to that of skin.

 

SPF – Sun Protection Factor - The number is established by exposing people to a light spectrum intended to mimic the noontime sun. Some people wear sunscreen and some do not. The sun protected skin is watched and compared to the non-protected skin for redness. The study divides the amount of light it takes to induce redness in the protected group by the amount of light that induces redness in the unprotected group. This is the SPF. The test mainly measures the UVB protection from 1 to 45. A sunscreen with an SPF of 15 filters 92% of the UVB. The SPF 15 sunscreen allows a person to stay out in the sun 15 times longer.

 

Striations – are stripes of skin disfigurations – discolorations that can be seen on the skin.

 

Sun damage – is when the skin is exposed to sun rays that produce redness, pain, pealing of skin, and blisters. This will damage the skin by causing skin cancers, pre-mature aging and irregular brown spots.

 

Surfactant - A surface agent that lowers the surface tension of the water and increases the solubility of organic compounds. Surfactants allow the dispersion of an insoluble ingredient within water. As a result, this allows the formation of soap bubbles in a product. Detergents are surfactants that help eliminate dirt from a substance by making it dissolve more readily in the water in which the dirt is washed. Basically, a surfactant gives a product the ability to surround dirt and wash it away.  Also known as wetting agents.

 

Synergistic – A substance is synergistic when the interaction of elements that when combined produce a total effect that is greater than the sum of the individual substances. In skin care, this would refer to a product whose ingredients are made to work better than alone.

 

T

 

Tan – A darkening of the skin caused increased melanin production due to sun exposure.

 

Tearless – a personal care product that passes testing to show it does not cause any eye irritation.

 

Terpenoids - Any of a group of hydrocarbons that consist of terpenes connected to an oxygen-containing group. Terpenoids are widely found in plants, and can form cyclic structures such as sterols. Terpenoids are found in vitamins, fragrances, and biopolymers (latex).

 

Thermogenesis – when the cells of the body produce heat.

 

Tone – refers to the look of skin as related to color, elasticity and brightness.

 

Toner – a skin care product intended to adjust skin pH, reduce pores and calm skin.

 

Topical – any product meant to be applied externally to the skin.

 

Trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) – is the water loss from the skin’s epidermis. A TEWL test measures the skin’s barrier function ability determining how much water is evaporation from the skin.

 

Toxin - A poisonous substance, especially a protein, which is made by living cells or organisms. Toxins are capable of causing disease when introduced into the body tissues but is often also capable of inducing neutralizing antibodies or antitoxins.

 

U

 

Ultraviolet radiation – is radiation found in the ultraviolet range. The wave lengths are shorter than light but longer than X-rays. The three types of radiation from the sun are UVA, UVB and UVC. UVA & UVB rays reach the earth with UVC rays mostly being filtered out by the atmosphere.  Ultraviolet radiation is very damaging to the skin.

 

UVA – Ultraviolet Light type A – UVA light rays are not visible but are thought to do the most damage to the skin since they are the longest rays. UVA rays have short wave lengths and can pass through glass. Make sure your sunscreen is a broad spectrum that protects against UVA and UVB rays. Look for these ingredients:  Octocrylene, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, Mexoryl (ecamsule).

 

UVB – Ultraviolet Light type B – UVB is a medium length light ray from the sun that is not visible. It does damage to unprotected skin by causing sunburn which leads to premature aging and possible skin cancer. Many UVB rays are filtered by the ozone layer but we are still very much affected by them. Make sure your sunscreen is a broad spectrum that protects against UVA and UVB rays. Look for these ingredients:  Octocrylene, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, Mexoryl (ecamsule).

 

V

 

Vasco-constructive – something that brings about narrowing of the capillaries and blood vessels.

 

Vasco-dilator – something that brings about expansion of the capillaries and blood vessels.

 

Vitamin –a variety of fat-soluble or water-soluble organic substances vital in small amounts for normal growth and activity of the body. Vitamins are acquired naturally from plant and animal foods or from supplements.

 

W

 

Waterless – a product that does not need water for usage. Ex. Hand sanitizer

 

Waterproof - Made of or coated or treated with rubber, plastic, or a sealing agent to avoid penetration by water.

 

Water-resistant – repeals water but is not fully waterproof.

 

Water-soluble – an ingredient that can be dissolved in water or washed away by water without other agents.

 

Wax - any of a group of substances made of hydrocarbons, alcohols, fatty acids, and esters that are solid at ordinary temperatures. Wax is harder and less greasy than fats.

 

Whitehead – A small, white or yellowish mass just beneath the surface of the skin. Whiteheads are caused by the retention of sebum and keratin clogging the follicle. The follicle opening is blocked by the whitehead unlike a blackhead which is not blocked.

 

 

 

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